Eastward Ho!




Follow my adventures as I embark on a journey of a lifetime. I'll be overlanding from London to Darwin for six months, experiencing many countries and cultures along the way. From Australia, I'll continue east around the globe until I end up back at the beginning, just in time for Christmas dinner. That's the plan anyway, whether I stick to that plan is a different story...........

Saturday 22 October 2011

Vietnam and not a pot belly in sight

My first impression of Vietnam wasn't great, and as soon as we passed through the border from Laos, it was apparent that the Vietnamese weren't great animal lovers.  I quickly learnt that animals were there to be eaten and not loved.
Waiting at the Vietnamese side of the border was a public bus loaded with pigs, goats and chickens all strapped onto the roof of the bus, and all shrieking as loud as they could.  There was also a dog in a basket on the roof of the bus, and after they had crossed the border and loaded the human passengers on the bus, it drove off as the rain lashed down on the poor animals.

We had endured a living nightmare ourselves in the form of the overnight sleeper bus and had been holed up since 2am on the Laos side of the border and had to wait there until it opened at 6am. The bus driver turned off the ignition which also meant the air conditioning was turned off and left us to try and sleep in our coffins whilst he legged it to the local brothel next door.

Once through the border in Vietnam, we made our way to Vinh where we were to stay the night before heading to Hanoi the next day.  When we arrived in Vinh, tired and hungry, we dumped out bags and headed out for a bite to
eat.  Two hours later in the heat of the day we were still searching for that bite......and even hungrier and more tired than ever!  We decided to head back to the hotel for a meal as all the coffee shops we saw didn't serve food at all so
once back at the hotel we looked at the menu and I saw that tortoise featured a few times on it, but I decided against that choice!  Whilst we were still out on that torturous walk around Vinh, a couple of vehicles drove past blasting out
someones voice over a loud speaker, so so loud it was ear piercing.  After gaining everyones attention due to the excess noise, I realised that they were trying to get us to look at their vans that had large cages on top, one van containing a couple of bears and some monkeys and the other van containing a couple of huge wolves.  I felt sickened as they were driven past us, pacing up and down and looking totally bewildered.  Not long before seeing this, three young lads on a motorbike tried to run me over on purpose by a petrol garage forecourt and a man grabbed Mel as we walked past......We all had a very bad afternoon and start to Vietnam, I was sure I was going to hate the place, luckily things changed!

I loved this tree and it's great roots!



Vietnam on the globe in Hanoi

Me, Mel and Aoife in Hanoi



I couldn't wait to get out of Vinh, and we loaded up into the bus the next morning for our journey to Hanoi.

The main means of transportation are motorbikes and it was an entertaining drive to Hanoi watching how everyone transports just about anything on their trusty 2 wheels.   The funniest were bikes totally camouflaged by feathered beings such as ducks, geese and chickens, all alive and enjoying the ride.  I even saw two live pink pigs, one flanked on either side of the driver, calmly being driven to who knows where.  It seemed so strange and abnormal to me, but I had to remember that this is normality to the Vietnamese, to drive in a mad fashion, sometimes four people balancing on a motorbike at a time, and babies being precariously held whilst whizzing through the traffic.

Motorbikes galore!


Selling her wares

Lift anyone?


We arrived in Hanoi where the streets were just crazy, bikes bikes bikes EVERYWHERE!  It was a mission to cross the road, but once you realise that once you leave the pavement you just keep going until the other side, the bikes will
maneuver around you, then it gets easier. kind of.  It was madness, but whatever strategy they had it seemed to work, there didn't seem to be any crashes!

Hanoi backpackers is a fab hostel, and the majority of the group ended up sharing a dorm room whilst the others paid a bit extra for some privacy in their own rooms.  Mark the Kiwi owner of the hostel showed us around the hostel and
to our rooms, and was extremely attentive, going the extra mile.  That has been proven since as we have met a few people on our travels who also stayed there and rated it highly.

Our time in Hanoi was spent sightseeing, including visiting the old prison and wandering around the lake, and sampling a few cheap beers down beer alley, oh and of course, dodging motorbikes!

From Hanoi, the group heading to Halong Bay and jumped into a boat which took us out to the boat we were staying on overnight.  The sun was shining as we headed onto deck for a spot of sunbathing before feasting on a great lunch
that the crew made.   The afternoon was spend swimming in the South China Sea with a great backdrop of the famous Halong Bay islands, then we worked off that lunch kayaking to see a floating village nearby to where our boat was
anchored.  We all decided one night wasn't enough, but that was all we had as we were booked back into our hostel back in Hanoi, so that was where we headed once again.

CJ jumping for joy at Halong Bay

Mandy and Me having an afternoon dip

our boat for the night

CJ and Jim pondering life on deck

Sunset from deck

Catching the rays amongst beautiful scenery


Back in Hanoi, a group of us when to visit the puppet show, which is a re-enactment of the puppet shows that used to happen in the paddy fields years ago for entertainment. The next day, a small group of us went on a tour of Hanoi
with 'Hanoi Kids', a company where you get to see Hanoi by being shown around by two young adults who practice their English on you and you pay for their lunch and buy them a gift if you want, as they don't accept cash for their tours.  We had two great people, Tu and Tung, and they first off took us to Ho Chi Min's Mausoleum.  We walked in and saw him lying behind glass, and he looked like a wax work.  He had been there a fair few years so he looked pretty good, all things considered.

The guards at the Palace - swinging their arms as they marched

Palace in Hanoi

The most revolting thing I've tried in a while....a very popular desert in Vietnam. Yuk

An early Vietnamese house - built high to show wealth


At the end of our day out in Hanoi, we prepared ourselves for another night bus, this time to Hue.  It turned out to be an even more of an unpleasant journey than the last night bus ride, and I wished I had been one of the others that booked an overnight train instead.  Doh.  It ended up being Aoife, me, Mel, Zoe and Susan in the upstairs 'cave'. No toilet, and decrepit upholstery that hadn't been updated since the 70's and rips and stuffing coming out from all the seats.  It was a long and hellish night, and I vowed never to do one ever again!

Our time in Hue was spent firstly enjoying a few celebratory bevvies for Clare's birthday, and catching up on some zzz's from the (non)sleeper bus! 

The whole of our group also had dinner on a boat whilst we sailed along the perfume river, we let off prayer candles from the back of the boat, whilst trying to avoid the sudden downpour which continued all night.  That night, some of
our lot from Odyssey ran into the UK to OZ peeps so caught up with them as we hadn't seen them since Turkey!

Mel. Aoife and Jenn on the bridge in Hue

Grubs up, street seller Hue

Tourists taking it easy in Hue

Palace in Hue

Amazingly huge lotus leaves

Tidy bush

Boats on the Perfume River

Setting off my prayer candle from the boat on the Perfume River

Aoife, Mel me and Mandy on the boat ride


We had an early start the next day as we were all booked onto the DMZ tour (De-Military Zone).  We picked up ourguide and spend the day visiting various sights to do with the Vietnam war, and we all learnt a great deal from him.

Rock Pile

Kids from the village we visited during the DMZ tour

At the village during the DMZ tour

Vietnamese house at the local village

Helicopter from the Vietnam war

Tank from the Vietnam war

Graves from soldiers from the Vietnam War

Hien Luong Bridge

Jim and a rather large megaphone

Underground tunnels

Russell with his weapon of choice

The view as you leave the underground tunnels
The maternity ward underground


After a rather somber day at the DMZ, we then headed for a little retail therapy, in the form of tailor made clothes in Hoi An!!  I think almost everyone partook in this activity over the next few days, whether it was a new suit, swimming
cossie or new top or dress.  It was very exciting as all our clothes by this stage are falling apart!

We also partook in a Vietnamese cooking course, in a very well run cooking school behind a restaurant. We learnt a lot, and I will be practicing my spring roll making skills once I am home!  It was also Wendy's birthday the same day,
so decided to spend the evening back at the same restaurant with a delicious meal and great fun with the whole group attending, then some of us heading on to a bar until the wee small hours............

Around the market learning about the produce

A brilliant piece of kit for the kitchen

My spring roll that I made!

It was deeeeelicious!!

Wendy's birthday

Market traders


After all the activity of clothes making, we all needed a little rest so what better way to spend the next few days but on a beach, Jungle Beach in fact, where we stayed in little huts and frolicked in the sea, even a spot of skinny dipping was had by all in the night sea to see the phosphorescent which were amazing.  We did little else other that swim in the sea and had a cocktail party, where tent buddies paired up to make a cocktail, name and ingredients and all the others would judge it.  Mine and Jenn's was 'Sex on a west country beach'.  Needless to say, ours came out overall highest score, yay!

Cocktails on the beach.....only thing missing, Tom Cruise

Zoe by her jungle/beach hut

Jungle beach

Everyone having fun

Early morning at Jungle beach with the fishermen

Solitary basket

Four fishermen in a little round boat


Departing Jungle Beach was pretty difficult, especially as the sea was so warm and the days were so relaxing, but never the less, we had to move on and so we did.......to Saigon! Or Ho Chi Min as it's also called.  We were also back to one of my favourite activities - motorbike dodging. 

Saigon city tour

Happy clare

Church on Ho Chi Min

a common sight


We did the usual city tour and decided to do a Mekong Delta tour as we were so close, so some of us got up early and headed on the coach to the Mekong where we boarded a small boat and sailed around the floating market, before getting back on land and being shown how various foods are made including popping rice.  At lunch, I had the opportunity to have a bloody huge python around my neck, he was very heavy and fast, but not at all slimy.

Aoife and Emily on the Delta

Mel and I on the Delta

a friendly python

He was a big boy!

Ladies getting ready to row us along the river

Aoife and I

a cute river dweller

Aoife and here new hat

Me going local

Mel and her vietnamese bonnett

Emily at Ascot

Floating Market

River transportation

Market trader


We ended the day cruising along the delta enjoying the last few sights of Vietnam before heading onto Cambodia.

I also ended my trip around Vietnam with great memories of a fabulous country, and those early days where I really wasn't enamoured with the place were a distant memory.

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